🥯 Coffee & Myeonpo in Jeongdong: The Dawn of Korean Baking
The Dawn of K-Bakery: From Myeonpo to Global Trends
1. The Enlightenment Table: Sontag Hotel and 'Snow Cake'
The history of bread in Korea began in Jeongdong, Seoul, where the chaos of the late Joseon Dynasty met the desire for modernization. While official records point to the 1884 Joseon-Russia Treaty, the seeds of popularization were sown by Antoinette Sontag of the Sontag Hotel. Western confectioneries presented to Emperor Gojong along with "Gabae" (Coffee) were a cultural shock to Koreans at the time.
Terminology for bread was diverse. It was called 'Myeonpo' (influenced by Chinese), 'Ppang' (from Portuguese 'Pão' via Japan), and 'Seolgo' (Snow Cake), named for the soft texture of Castella resembling snow. 'Seolgo' is particularly significant as it shows how Koreans reinterpreted Western sponge cake through the lens of traditional white rice cakes (Baekseolgi), actively adapting foreign culture.
2. Koreanization of Baking: Steamer over Oven, Makgeolli over Yeast
The biggest barrier to Western baking in Korea was the absence of 'ovens'. Traditional Korean kitchens centered around cauldrons and fire pits, making dry heat baking difficult. Here, Korean ingenuity shone through. They utilized the 'Siru (Steamer)', used for making rice cakes, creating a 'Steam Cooking' method for bread.
Furthermore, instead of rare Western yeast, they used the natural yeast found in 'Makgeolli' (Traditional Rice Wine). The wild yeast and lactobacilli in Makgeolli not only leavened the dough but also aided digestion and delayed staling, adding a unique fermented aroma. The resulting 'Sool-ppang' (Alcohol Bread) was a unique hybrid food positioned somewhere between Western bread and Korean rice cake.
| Comparison | 19th C. Western Bread | 19th C. Korean Bread |
|---|---|---|
| Cooking Method | Oven Baking (Dry Heat) | Siru Steaming (Wet Heat) |
| Leavening Agent | Beer Yeast, Sourdough | Makgeolli, Nuruk (Koji) |
| Texture | Crispy Crust, Chewy Crumb | Moist and Fluffy throughout |
3. Heritage Recipe: 19th Century 'Mugwort Makgeolli Cake'
A traditional steamed bread made without commercial yeast or baking powder, relying solely on the yeast in raw Makgeolli. The subtle scent of mugwort and sweet beans makes it a perfect modern dessert.
🥣 Ingredients (One 18cm Round Pan)
- Dry: 250g All-purpose Flour, 15g Mugwort Powder, 3g Salt
- Wet: 180ml Raw Makgeolli (Must contain live yeast, shake before use), 50ml Warm Water, 60g Sugar
- Topping: 50g Sweetened Kidney Beans or Peas
👨🍳 Process
- Activate Makgeolli: Mix raw Makgeolli, warm water, sugar, and salt in a bowl until sugar dissolves. (Bring Makgeolli to room temp beforehand.)
- Batter: Sift flour and mugwort powder into the liquid. Whisk until smooth. The consistency should be slightly thicker than pancake batter.
- Natural Fermentation: Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm spot (30~35°C) for 3-4 hours. The batter should double in size and show bubbles on the surface.
- Prep: Pour batter into a steamer lined with a wet cloth. Sprinkle sweet beans on top.
- Steam: Place on a steaming pot with boiling water. Steam on high heat for 25 mins, then rest for 5 mins. Done when a skewer comes out clean.
* Tip: You MUST use 'Draft (Raw) Makgeolli'. Pasteurized Makgeolli has dead yeast and will not make the bread rise.
4. 2026 Trends: The Genre of 'K-Bakery'
Approaching 2026, Korean baking culture has moved beyond importing to 'Re-exporting'. Reinterpretations of Western bread like 'Garlic Six-sided Bread', 'Kimchi Croquettes', and 'Sweet Potato Bread' are being recognized as a new genre called 'K-Bakery' in New York and Paris.
⚠️ Expert Insight: Modernizing Tradition
"Competitiveness now lies not just in making Western bread well, but in integrating native Korean yeast (Nuruk) and ingredients (Mugwort, Black Sesame, Rice). In particular, 'Enlightenment Era Concept' bakeries provide a powerful cultural experience for Gen Z, who consume heritage beyond retro."